This article is an introduction to some of the ingredients that are commonly found in cosmetics and personal care products. In summary, I would prioritize green beauty and personal care products for pregnant women, but don’t worry, a mixture of products is likely for everyone. There is no expectation to replace your entire makeup bag and medicine cabinet. However, it helps to be aware when you run out of products and have choices to replenish.
Government Regulation of Cosmetics and Personal Care Products
Many consumers might be surprised to discover the FDA does not review the safety of cosmetics and personal care products before they go to market, other than color additives. Instead, the agency has authorized the industry to police itself through a Cosmetics Ingredient Review (CIR) panel. To note, this panel has declared just 11 ingredients as unsafe since it was established in 1976, and its recommendations for restricting personal care ingredients are not binding to companies. In contrast, the European Union has banned over 1,400 ingredients from use in cosmetics and personal care products, primarily for being carcinogenic or toxic to reproduction.
What does this mean for Americans? Well, in the same way that Mars, based in McLean, VA, markets M&M candies with artificial dyes in the U.S. (dyes linked to hyperactivity), while using vegetable and plant-based dyes for M&M’s in Europe, American beauty companies make same-label cosmetics that are safer overseas than the products sold to customers back home. Talk about irritating!
To help you think about some of these issues, here is a list of some of the worst chemical offenders in beauty and personal care.
Antibacterials (triclosan)
What is it? Triclosan is consistently under scrutiny with the FDA over potential long-term health risks, such as unanticipated hormone effects and contributions to increasingly resistant bacteria. Triclosan also may contaminate the environment. After triclosan is washed down drains, it is converted to dioxin when exposed to sunlight and water. It can also combine with chlorine in tap water to make chloroform, a probable carcinogen.34
Where do I find it? Triclosan is found in toothpaste, soaps, and hand sanitizers, such as Colgate Total toothpaste, Softsoap liquid hand soap, Dial liquid soap and bars, Clearasil Daily Face Wash, and Bath & Body Works antibacterial soaps.
How do I minimize or avoid it? Use natural soaps without the antibacterial label. Try a natural toothpaste, such as Tom’s of Maine or The Natural Dentist.
Coal Tar
What is it? Coal tar is a thick brown or black liquid that forms as a by-product when coal is processed. Since coal tar has been used in soaps and shampoos for the treatment of psoriasis and other skin diseases for over a century, it has been grandfathered into the OTC system. Coal tar is known to increase skin sensitivity to sunlight, and it is also found in hair dyes and lotions.
Where do I find it? Dyes with a coal tar base are used in dandruff shampoos (Neutrogena T/Gel Shampoo, Psoriatrax Anti-Dandruff Tar Shampoo), permanent hair dyes (salon and drugstore dyes made by Loreal, Revlon, Clairol, and others), mouthwash (FD&C Green 3), and toothpaste (FD&C Blue). The EU banned coal tar in 2004. Much of the evidence linking hair dyes with cancer has come from studies of salon workers.
How do I avoid or minimize it? Check labels on hair dyes, skin creams, and dandruff shampoos. Look for these ingredients: Coal tar solution, tar, coal, carbo-cort, coal tar solution USP, crude coal tar, estar, impervotar, KC 261, lavatar, picis carbonis, naphtha, high solvent naphtha, naphtha distillate, benzin B70, and petroleum benzin.
Diethanolamine (DEA)
What is it? Diethanolamine (DEA) is a chemical that can adversely affect hormones and cell functioning and development. The EU has banned DEA in cosmetics.
Where do I find it? DEA is used in shampoos and soaps to increase lather. Ethanolamines are also found in lotions, shaving creams, ointments, eyeliners, mascaras, blush, foundations, and sunscreens.
How do I avoid or minimize it? Avoid labels with MEA, TEA, and DEA and anything that ends in–ethanolamine. Worry less about mascaras with DEA and more about lotions that remain on the skin and shampoos lathered in close proximity to your brain.
1,4-Dioxane
What is it? 1,4-dioxane is a carcinogenic byproduct of a process called ethoxylation, which is a shortcut companies take to make soaps and shampoos milder and less irritating to the skin. 1,4-dioxane is on the state of California’s list of chemicals known to cause cancer, and it is banned for use in cosmetics in Canada. The Environmental Working Group (EWG) estimates that 97% of hair relaxers, 57% of baby soaps, and 22% of the more than 25,000 products in the Skin Deep database may be contaminated with 1,4-dioxane.
Where do I find it? 1,4-dioxane is found in products that make suds, like shampoo, bubble bath, and liquid soap.
How do I avoid or minimize it? 1,4-dioxane should not be in cosmetics and personal care products certified under the USDA National Organic program. Avoid labels with sodium laureth sulfate (use a sulfate-free shampoo) and ingredients written as “PEG,” “-xynol,” “ceteareth,” and “oleth.”
Formaldehyde
What is it? Formaldehyde is a probable human carcinogen that can be added to products as an ingredient or released from formaldehyde-releasing preservatives (FRPs).
Where do I find it? Formaldehyde is found in products such as baby bath soap, nail polish, and hair dyes, as a contaminant or a break-down product. Vulnerable groups are infants, salon workers, and nail salon workers.
How do I avoid or minimize it? Avoid labels with formaldehyde, quaternium-15, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, and 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1, 3-diol (bromopol). Look for “toxic-trio-free” nail polish (formaldehyde, toluene, and DBP). Avoid keratin-based hair straighteners in hair salons, such as Brazilian Blowout. These products were found to contain up to 12% formaldehyde.
Fragrance and phthalates
- What is it? These endocrine disruptors mimic the action of our natural hormones, and they can cause reproductive and developmental harm.
- Where do I find it? Phthalates are often hidden under the term “fragrance” in beauty products. Look for phthalates, such as dimethyl phthalate (DMP), diethyl phthalate (DEP), and dibutyl phthalate (DBP), in hair spray, perfumes, deodorant, nail polish, and almost anything with fragrance.
- How do I avoid or minimize it? Use fragrance-free products.
Lead and mercury
What is it? Lead is responsible for making color lipsticks last. The longer it lasts, the more lead it contains. Also, the FDA generally does not allow mercury in drugs or cosmetics; although, mercury has been found in excessive levels in many beauty and skin products made overseas and sold in local ethnic stores.
Where do I find it? Brands of lipstick or lip-gloss, such as Clinique, Chanel, Christian Dior, and Lancôme, are found to be lead positive. Lead can also show up in products that have hydrated silica, such as toothpaste. Mercury has been found in soaps, cosmetics, and skin care products in stores that tend to cater to Latino, African-American, Asian, and Middle Eastern communities.
How do I avoid or minimize it? Choose organic or natural cosmetics that do not contain lead and mercury.
Parabens
What is it? Parabens are common preservatives that prevent bacteria growth. Parabens became controversial due to their weak estrogenic effects in animals studies. Estrogen disruption is linked to breast cancer and reproductive issues.
Where do I find it? Parabens are found in about 85% of cosmetics.
How do I avoid or minimize it? Check for methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, butyl-, and isobutyl- paraben. Choose paraben-free brands, such as Burt’s Bees, Aveda, Dr. Hauschka, and Josie Maran Cosmetics.
Petroleum distillates (PDs)
What is it? Petroleum distillates are hydrocarbon solvents made from crude oil. They are used as inexpensive moisturizers in cosmetics and personal care products. The EU restricts or prohibits petroleum distillates as possible human carcinogens.
Where do I find it? PDs are found in mascara, eye shadow, foundation, wart remover, and foot-odor powder.
How do I avoid or minimize it? Check for the terms “petroleum” or “liquid paraffin” in products.
P-Phenylenediamine (PPD)
- What is it? P-Phenylenediamine is widely used as a dye, and it is associated with allergic reactions.
- Where do I find it? PPD can be found in 307 hair coloring and bleaching products in EWG’s Skin Deep database. PPD can cause irritation and damage to the nervous system and lungs.
- How do I minimize or avoid it? Scan a product’s barcode with the Skin Deep mobile app before purchasing home hair coloring products.
Hydroquinone
- What is it? Hydroquinone, banned from cosmetics in the EU, is one of the most toxic ingredients still used in personal care products today, with links to cancer, organ toxicity, allergies, and immune system toxicity.
- Where do I find it? Hydroquinone is found in skin lighteners, facial and skin cleansers, facial moisturizers (under-eye treatments), hair conditioners, and nail glue.
- How do I minimize or avoid it? Hydroquinone is heavily marketed for spot correction and to women of color in skin lighteners. Avoid labels with hydroquinone, tocopheral acetate, tocopheral, tocopheral linoleate, and other ingredients with the root “toco.”